Havasupai Camping Trip (part 1)
I just returned from a three-night visit to one of the most beautiful places I have ever been on this earth, the Havasupai waterfalls in the Grand Canyon. This consists of at least six waterfalls in a lush oasis in the middle of the Grand Canyon.
The Havasupai tribe strictly control access to their campground. Permits can be obtained through their website, but I warn you it’s confusing and competitive. I may write a separate newsletter on that topic another time. For now, let me just say that if a friend invites you during the peak tourist season (April to September), do not hesitate and seize the opportunity!
About six months ago, I was fortunate to buy four permits in June through the resale section of the tribe’s website. One friend was eager to go, but it was more difficult than I thought it would be finding anyone willing to go in the middle of June. Many people said that it would simply be too hot in the Grand Canyon that time of year. A pox on them -- the weather was fine.
About one week before the start of the trip one of my friends going read reports on a Havasupai Facebook page of people going there and getting violently sick the stomach. Reports of projectile vomiting and being taken out on helicopter to the Flagstaff hospital were common. The Facebook page was replete with theories about the cause, ranging from the water, fry-bread and bathrooms. Then the problem made the media, with reports like this one: Dozens sickened with 'unknown' illness at Havasupai Falls . The tribe was not offering refunds or vouchers to reschedule. After some discussion, three of the four in our group decided to take our chances and go. The fourth person dropped off.
The day before we made the quick three-hour drive from Las Vegas to Peach Springs Arizona to get to check in and get our luggage tags. We spent the night at the Grand Canyon Caverns Campground. I have a theory that the town of Radiator Springs in the Cars movies was based loosely on Peach Springs, Arizona. Can anyone confirm or deny? We set our alarms for 4AM to get an early start for the hot ten-mile hike to the campground.
The next morning, we drove the remaining 60 miles to the trailhead. I almost hit an elk on the dark lonely two-lane highway leading to the trailhead parking area. Another car clearly did hit one as evidenced by the dead elk in the middle of the road and a car with hazard lights on next to it. If you drive this road, especially at night, be careful.
After arriving at the parking lot, we placed our heavy bags in the pile to be taken down by mules. This service, by the way, costs $400 both ways for up to four bags. By 6AM we finally started the hike down. As we hiked down, we passed other campers leaving who clearly hiked most of the night. I asked some of them if they noticed anyone getting sick. Fortunately, they all said everything seemed normal down at the campground.
The hike down was fun and without any problems. We feared it would be very hot, but it really wasn’t bad at all. Four hours later, around 10AM we arrived at the campground. I should mention I had been to Havasupai before, in 2011, so learned a few things. One thing I learned was to camp towards the far end of the campground. The campground is long and narrow, following the Havasu Creek. As you hike in, you first come to the famous Havasupai waterfall. From there, there are campsites along the creek for about half a mile. Most people seem to favor being close to the Havasupai waterfall. However, it pays to sacrifice a short walk to the waterfall for the more abundant good campsites further away. All campsites are first come first serve.
Despite this strategy, we couldn’t immediately find a good campsite anywhere. We ended up resting near a beautiful campsite at the far end of the campground. I met a woman staying there who said they were leaving about 3AM and we were welcome to take it after they left. We happily accepted this offer.
Then one of my friends and I went to the Havasupai waterfall while the other one napped. We had a good time. The cool water was very refreshing compared to the hot air. When we returned to our campground, we found about three other tents mysteriously set up at the campsite we wanted to poach in the morning. The woman I spoke with earlier said nobody was around when it would seem a phantom set them up. It would be an understatement to say my napping friend was unhappy about this. She insisted we set up ours in the same campsite as well, since we laid claim to it first. The woman vacating the campsite in the morning kindly did not object. Her group was all in hammocks, so we didn’t inconvenience them much. So, I moved all three of our tents among the mystery tents already there.
We then had to wait until about 7PM for our heavy bags to arrive. Ours were somehow not on the regular mule teams. Through another camper waiting for luggage, we were informed there were still a few more bags coming, but details on where they were and when they would arrive were always changing. I tend to suspect they were incorrectly left at the lodge in Supai. We spent some time relaxing and playing in the nearby stream. Eventually, around 7PM, the heavy bags finally arrived via a large ATV. I believe they were supposed to arrive about 3PM. It was a hectic evening, taking four heavy bags back the long walk back to the campsite and setting up the tents. By the time we were done, it was dark.
Next week I will continue with part 2 of the story, including what happened with the mystery tents and if any of us got sick.